How To Make an Indoor Worm Compost Bin

Worm composting is easy to do indoors and you don't need to pay hundreds of dollars for a fancy vermiculture system or worm tower, worm condo... whatever they call them. Three cheap plastic storage bins is all you need to make your own indoor worm compost system. Learn more at www.livingasimplelife.com .



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Compost Part 2--The Turn

Part 2 The proper way to turn your compost pile and uses for compost in the garden



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Compost Tumblers - A Look At The Types Of Compost Tumblers

If you are looking for a good way to make compost quickly, one of the best solutions is a compost tumbler. A tumbler has many advantages, but the one that most folks are aware of is the ability to make compost quickly and easily. Any compost pile will work faster when you turn it regularly, but a tumbler makes the process of turning the pile about as easy as it can get. When you start looking at either building or buying a compost tumbler, its good to have an understanding of the different types of tumblers available today.

Types of Tumblers

Center-axle Mounted Drums.

As the name suggests, this is a style that has the drum sitting above ground, with single pole or axle that runs through the middle of the drum. The drum rotates freely about this axle, with the barrel standing vertically when the tumbler is at rest, and to turn the pile you simply rotate the drum. This is usually not too much effort, but as the compost finishes you may get it sliding to one end as you rotate, with a resulting thump. Look a the height to make sure it will work for loading and unloading for you. Some units have doors on both ends, making it easier to load and unload the unit. The Urban Compost Tumbler is an example of this style.

Rolling Drums with a Base

This style has a barrel that sits on a base, which sits on the ground. Some styles have rollers in the base to make the rotation easier, others simply have drum rotate in a plastic base, which are not as easy to turn. The ones without rollers typically have a spot for your feet to have you push on it with your feet to turn it. Often with these the drum is rolled to a spot for loading/unloading. The Envirocyle Composter is and example of a rolling drum, which not only is a composter but will collect compost tea in the base of the unit.

Rolling Spheres

These are different in that they don't have a base. They are simply large drums or balls that are similar to the rolling drums, but are spun by rolling around the yard. Obviously, these can be rolled to the loading and unloading spots as well. Some are not drum shapes, but generally are not truly spherical, but have some flat sides so they will stay where you put them, but occasionally that will make it difficult to steer them while rolling. An example of these is the Bio Orb.

Crank-operated Rolling Drums

Generally considered the best of the tumbler styles, these have the drums resting on a raised frame, usually with rollers that are driven be a gear system that is hand crank operated. Because of the gearing, these are often the easiest to operate. Some of the better models even have internal baffles in the drum to improve the mixing action of the tumbling. They tend to sit higher than other models, so that a wheelbarrow can easily be used to load and unload the unit. An example of this style is the ComposTumbler, Generally these are the most expensive units, but they have the biggest capacities and are easiest to use.

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Common Compost Problems and Solutions

Is your compost pile smelly? Not producing compost fast enough or at all? Damp and cool? These are common problems faced when building a compost pile, but the good news is that they are easy to fix. Listed below are some of the most common problems in a compost pile and their solutions.

Problem: Smelly

Solution: Your compost pile is too wet and is not getting enough oxygen to properly decompose. To help it dry out, you need to add some brown material (such as hay or dry leaves) to the top of the pile. Then rotate the pile, at least once a week, with a pitch fork to get air into the middle of the pile.

Problem: Attracts insects, worms and slugs.

Solution: Do nothing. Insects, worms and slugs are a normal part of the decomposition process.

Problem: Attracts flies, rodents, raccoons and other creatures.

Solution: You have probably added food scraps, such as fish, meat or bones. Avoid adding these items and place other food scrapes near the center of the pile. Put up a wire fence over the pile or switch to a container bin system that has a lid that can be locked into place.

Problem: Grass clippings are not decomposing.

Solution: Avoid adding too thick of a layer of grass or too much grass. Mix in dry leaves and rotate the pile to let oxygen in.

Problem: The compost pile is damp and warm in the middle, but not anywhere else in the pile.

Solution: Your compost pile is too small. When you are composting in a pile, make sure the pile is 3 feet wide and 3 feet high. Composting bins or tumblers don't need to be so large, making them more suitable for the city or small families.

Problem: The compost pile is decomposing most items, but some large items remain.

Solution: Before you put larger items in your compost pile, break them down into smaller pieces. This will give more surface area to the microorganisms that are responsible for decomposing the material in your compost pile.

Problem: The center of the compost pile is dry.

Solution: Add water while rotating the pile. It is important to keep the moisture level just right. Too dry and the materials won't break down properly. Too wet and the pile will start to rot.

Problem: The center of the compost pile is cool or warm, but not hot.

Solution: You need more nitrogen in your compost pile. Add nitrogen rich material such as grass clippings, manure or other green materials. Ensure that any material added is damp. Too dry or wet and the materials won't decompose. Also, when adding grass, make sure that it is in thin layers, so that it will decompose.

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Care For Your Newly Hatched Chicks With the Right Brooder

A brooder is, simply put, a box that provides the best way to care for your chicks. You wouldn't leave a newborn to fend for himself outdoors.

In the same way, chicks who are newly hatched shouldn't be left in the cold to fend for themselves. They need special shelter, plenty of warmth and attention. But caring for them isn't complicated.

Follow these steps, and you'll get your babies off to the right start.

The Basics For Your Newly Hatched Babies

Your hatchlings will need warmth, protection from the wet and predators, plenty of space, ventilation and no drafts.

Until your babies are four weeks old, they will need half a square foot per bird. Don't give them more space than that, or it will be hard for them to stay warm. Your birds will need a source a heat for the first few weeks of their lives. A light bulb - or better yet, a brooder bulb - is an excellent source of this heat.

Also keep a thermometer in your brooder. Your fledglings need a consistent temperature of 95 degrees Fahrenheit for the first week. This is extremely important. Until your babies lose their down and get real feathers, they cannot stay warm by themselves.

You must gradually acclimate them to the cooler temperatures, so after the first week, lower the temperature in the brooder to 90 degrees.

Every week after that, reduce the temperature by about five degrees until the temperature in the brooder matches that of the temps outside. Be careful with the temperature in your brooder. If it gets too cold, your chicks could develop diarrhea and get sick.

Plus, if they get cold while they are sleeping they could pile up on each other and smother. Likewise, if it gets too hot in the brooder, your chicks will die.

You'll be able to tell if your chicks are comfortable. They'll sound contented, wander throughout the brooder while awake and sleep side by side.

building a Nursery For Your Babies

The best place for your fledglings is a large box about one to two feet high. How big it needs to be will depend on how many chicks you plan to have.

We ordered 50 hatchlings, so we made our box six by six feet and two feet high. My husband Rick drilled plenty of holes near the top to provide ventilation.

We hung a thermometer from a cross beam so we could check the temperature inside the brooder quickly and easily. We hung a light bulb from a cord. When it got too warm, we raised the bulb and likewise lowered it when it got too cold.

We provided two waterers that we got from a feed supply store. My husband made the feeder out of PVC pipe.

Special Treatment

If you order your babies through the mail, they will need special attention right away.

They can spend up to two days in transport and have been without food or water. To prevent them from going into shock, give them a homeopathic remedy called Arnica.

Like many homeopathic remedies, Arnica is available from your local health food store. Try to obtain a remedy of 30C. The remedy comes in small pellets. Crush three to six pellets between two teaspoons.

Add the crushed pellets to your hatchlings' water. Give your chicks water as soon as possible. They can go without water up to 48 hours after they hatch, but it is stressful for them, and the sooner you give them water, the better.

Keep Things Clean

The old adage, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" was never more true than when it comes to your babies.

So many diseases can be avoided by providing clean litter for your hatchlings and changing it frequently. However, until your little ones are eating well, cover up the litter with paper towels to keep them from eating the litter by mistake.

Change the paper toweling frequently to keep things clean. Likewise, change their litter frequently. Add that wonderful, dirty litter to your compost pile.

It's a good idea to put your babies on litter from the very beginning. That way, they'll gradually become immune to coccidiosis - a nasty intestinal disease. The litter also helps keep them warm and dry and absorbs their droppings.

The best kinds of litter are wood shavings (pine not hardwood), peat moss, crushed corncobs, vermiculite and crushed cane. We used wood shavings and we able to obtain them from our feed supply store.

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How to build compost heaps

Why create compost heap?

A compost pile will help you to update your garden and where you can reduce the rate of garbage that landfills. From just a little 'time out of your day, you can ensure that you have never heard of fertilizer and you do your part to help the environment. Even better, if you do, you, you find that a compost pile is much easier to put together than you mightthink!

How to start the construction of a compost pile

Start by choosing a site for your compost is close to both your kitchen and your garden. Some sun exposure is at hand, but make sure that they receive too much light, as these can dry. Some people recommend giving the compost pile in the shade of a tree, sure, with a base of cement or bricks, to make sure that this tree is not the only one to get the nutrients. Although it is not necessary to be aPlastic compost bin to keep your look clean and content. It is also possible to "fence" for your compost pile with a stiff wire. Although I can open the pages, you will find that a roof is necessary to prevent the compost from rain and keep getting flooded.

* Green compost materials are materials that are rich in nitrogen, and include things like grass clippings, raw vegetable peelings, tea bags, manure from horses and cows or young weeds withoutSemi.

Familiar with the green and brown compost, compost materials, materials. They decompose rapidly. Brown, compost materials in the hands of others, are rich in carbon and decompose much more slowly. Some materials that are good for compost Brown and cardboard, paper, sheets of vegetarian animals, or even sawdust and wood chips. If you intend to combine these materials, which are basically looking for a combination of green and brown in two parts, one part compost.

Combining compost with green and brown

To begin, you start throwing a shovel of compost in the green, sit on one with two blades of brown compost, then mix. Repeat until you have a battery which is about three meters tall, one meter wide, three meters in length. A compost heap of this size generates enough heat to break pretty quickly. Finally, throw the little end 'of the ground some compost or garden soil, to keep things.

TestWater to keep your compost regularly, she would feel a sponge or a damp cloth wrung out. It should also be activated once a week to maintain, so you lose. They are located approximately two months, there will be humus, which is the result of decomposition, and that will be perfect for your garden!

* For a moment, think about your garden or near the waste that is created pointing in a dunghill. This is a great addition to any green-minded gardeners can see the garden, so what canfor you!

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The maintenance of the compost pile

The maintenance of the compost pile is not a job too. In principle, each pile of organic stack may eventually rot into fertilizer. It 'only a matter of how long it lasts.

One key to keeping the compost pile is to make a good start in the first place. This means that placement in a level well-drained area. Also note that if you leave the free-standing outdoor compost pile, in the first place and decide to put theWaste in the trash, you save yourself a lot of work. In this way, you should not worry about the compost wet. If it does get wet, you can with errors, viruses or stink enough that your neighbors start complaining involved.

A large part of keeping the compost pile is to make available to your kitchen. It must be generous and regularly fed with kitchen waste. Can begin to smell and take a lot of vegetables and fruits in your kitchen area, soThe location of the compost pile near the door of your kitchen is a good idea. This is because if the compost pile is too far away that you can forget to use them.

Compost pile is a bit 'of warmth in its core. This is all the enzymes and aerobic activities to convert waste into soil fertilizer and soil conditioner. If you live in a colder climate then locate the pile in a sunny spot to catch the sun's heat. This will help keep the compostStack biologically active. A notice in relation to this is to locate the compost pile in a place where strong north winds or very cold will be protected.

If you live in a very hot and dry, you may have, in fact, taken to the compost heap, a little water. At least they keep in a shady, protected place, so it does not dry up and blow away. Anaerobic organisms, the compost can not thrive in a desert climate so invested, you will need more attentionconserved in composting because it is not likely to deteriorate very quickly by itself. In fact, it can not deteriorate at all. The inability of the desert climate, to create compost, which is part of the reason that nothing grows in the desert in the first place.

It is also easier to keep the compost, if you build above ground and not on concrete or asphalt. This is because the worms that are attracted to the compost pile does not want to live in concrete and asphalt. Even earthworms, beneficialMicrobes and bacteria will migrate up and down the pile of compost, helping to degrade and bring nutrients. To find the compost pile above the ground is the best fertilizer drainage. Unlike concrete or asphalt, the ground can also help to maintain moisture of the compost pile, so it does not dry up and blow away.

To ensure that all satisfied with the neighbors trying to find a pile of large compound in a place where both of their unpleasant odor and sometimesvisually unpleasant aspects are well hidden - perhaps a shed or behind a bush.

It 'really hard to fail when it comes to composting. This is because it really is a natural biological process. If you can not forget the composting is two things: a) about embassies feeding and rotate b) to get it out on the air. If you keep the compost from the ordinary to do these two things you can not help but be able to produce the fertilizer that is perfect for your garden.

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